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Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: MCilenti (IP Logged)
Date: December 1, 2018 11:19PM

Ahoy Everyone!
We're in the middle of replacing our water tanks and ran into an impasse. Before just charging on, we thought we'd post something and see if anyone had any ideas.

The forward tank came out with no problem. The aft tank however, is another matter all together. The forward part is just a little wider than the distance between the longitudinal supports and that coupled with the non-removable portion of the sole has me scratching my head at the easiest way to not only remove the old tank, but then install the new one.

So...any ideas on:
1. How to remove the fixed part of the sole? There are a lot of bungs, but I think most of those are for the screws that connect the teak to the plywood. I wasn't sure how the sole was fixed to the hull and didn't want to just start mindlessly drilling out all the bungs/screws in the hope that would work.

2. Perhaps once the sole is out it will be more obvious, but will it be possible to remove the longitudinal stringers without pulling off the engine compartment cover? Page 24-25 in the construction manual make it seem like it may, but I wasn't sure.

Any hints and tips here would be very helpful!

P.S. I'm planning on replumbing using PEX, but still on the fence about using the crimp, expansion, or 'click' in type of fittings. Seems like each has it's pros and cons, but any thoughts are always welcome.


Attachments: IMG_0001.jpg (801kB)   IMG_0003.jpg (723kB)  
Re: Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: svshaula (IP Logged)
Date: December 2, 2018 06:36AM

In your photo, it looks like the portside fore and aft stringer butts into the aft floor and is inset into the forward floor. Is that the case? Itís not clear in the photo that for sure the stringer butts on the aft stringer. It also looks like the stringer is screwed into something outboard of itóthereís a series of holes visible on its vertical surface.

My wild guess is that stringer is removable without removing the cabin sole. Seems like it should be removable doesnít it? Itís purpose is to keep the tank in place. If they added some glue to whatever itís screwed into, I think youíll have to chisel it out and replace it. Itís probably Douglas fir which splits fairly easily.

Re: Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: johnpurins (IP Logged)
Date: December 2, 2018 02:40PM

The entire aft section of sole is removable as a unit.

Lift up on its forward edge and slide the sole section forward until the aft end clears the engine compartment cover. Then rotate as required to stand it on edge.

Once the sole section is out, the stringers above the tank can be removed.

Re: Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: MCilenti (IP Logged)
Date: December 2, 2018 08:16PM

Thanks Guys!

Dan: The sole is on half of the stringer, so I can't yet lift it out. But if John is right this should be easier than I thought.

John: Thanks! We'll give it a try next weekend. I tried to pull it up, but just gently since I didn't want to damage anything. Now that I know it should be free I can try with a little more 'enthusiasm.'

Thanks guys!

Re: Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: MCilenti (IP Logged)
Date: December 17, 2018 01:52AM

Thanks for the tip John!

I felt much more comfortable working to get the aft part of the sole out since John mentioned it should have come out. Came out pretty easily (seems like the last time the prior owner varnished the sole, they did it in place...which is why it didn't want to come out right away).

So now both stainless water tanks are out. As you can imagine, I've got a lot of bilge cleaning to do. However, after that, it will be time to install the new roto-molded tanks.

One thing I noted was the stainless tanks, with their tabs were relatively easy to secure to the boat. The poly tanks will need to be blocked to ensure they are secure in the boat. If anyone has any specific hints/tips/drawings/pictures about how they've done this, I would appreciate it. Certainly happy to learn best practices from what others have done rather than re-learn it myself.

Thanks, in advance, for your help,

Re: Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: John Cole (IP Logged)
Date: December 17, 2018 08:00AM

I was faced with the same dilemma when replacing a 45 gallon holding tank into the bilges. (Not a BCC!) As you can imagine, this is some weight when full of waste.

I did a couple of things; I created a pump dainer for cleaning/servicing, and then fitted the tank into the bilge.

Then I created a couple of stringers, located the tank on the stringers, and filled all voids with expanding foam. Job done, no odor, and no sound!

To remove the tank is easy, just cut through the foam.

John Cole

Re: Water Tank Removal?
Posted by: MCilenti (IP Logged)
Date: January 13, 2019 04:27PM


Thanks for all of the help. After a lot of powerwashing and scrubbing, the bilge is all clean and yesterday we started the dry fit to figure out where to glass in some new supports....then it occurred to us:

We were working on some supports underneath the tanks to ensure bilge water could flow. But, for both the forward and aft tanks there is room outboard of the bottom of the tanks for water to flow, and since the tanks are plastic, there doesn't seem to be any need for an air gap like with stainless. Lastly, it seems like having the entire bottom of the tank on the bilge would provide the best support given the weight of water.

So...I'm scratching my head a bit and wondering if we should glass in standoffs on the bottom or just rest the tanks directly on the bottom of the bilge.

I feel like we must be missing something and look forward to your thoughts.

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